How to read a skincare ingredient list (INCI) in 5 steps

What is an INCI name?

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives every cosmetic ingredient one standard name so the same product can be labelled the same way in Dubai, Paris and Los Angeles. Plant ingredients use their Latin botanical name, often with the common name in brackets, and water is “Aqua”. In the US, the FDA requires common names, so a US label may say “Water” and “Shea Butter” where an EU label says “Aqua” and “Butyrospermum Parkii Butter”.

Why the order matters

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration until 1%. Anything at 1% or less can be listed in any order after that. In practice, the first five or six names make up most of the product, and an “active” listed near the end may be present at a very low level. The label doesn’t show percentages, so the order is the only clue.

Fragrance, parfum and the named allergens

“Parfum”, “Fragrance” or “Aroma” is a single word that can stand for dozens of ingredients. In the EU and UK, certain fragrance allergens must be named individually when they exceed 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products, for example Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol and Geraniol. A 2023 EU regulation is expanding that list from 26 to more than 80 substances, with labels changing through 2026 and 2028.

“Fragrance-free” means no added fragrance. “Unscented” can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover the base smell. Read the list.

CI numbers: the colourants

Colourants are listed at the end using Colour Index numbers. Some to know: CI 77891 is titanium dioxide, CI 77491 to 77499 are iron oxides, CI 75470 is carmine (from insects), and CI 42090 is Brilliant Blue. A “+/-” or “may contain” before the colours means the shade range of a make-up line is listed on one label.

“Free from” and other claims

Claims such as “paraben-free”, “sulfate-free” and “dermatologically tested” are marketing statements. In the EU they must be truthful and not misleading, but they don’t change the ingredient list, which is where the answer is. “Hypoallergenic” has no single legal definition.

A 5-step routine for any bottle

1. Read the first six ingredients: that’s most of the product.
2. Find “Parfum” or “Fragrance”, then look for named allergens after it.
3. Scan for the ingredients you avoid, under their INCI names (for example Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Methylparaben, Alcohol Denat., Cocos Nucifera Oil).
4. Check the colourants at the end for ones you avoid, such as CI 75470 (carmine).
5. Note the period-after-opening symbol (an open jar with “12M”) and keep the product within it.

Labels in the Gulf

Products sold in the UAE and Saudi Arabia follow GCC cosmetics standards and are usually labelled in Arabic and English, with the INCI list kept in Latin letters. The ingredient list itself is the same one used in the EU, so the routine above works on both sides of the pack.

How Bravoora helps

Bravoora reads the INCI list, recognises fragrance and its named allergens, sulfates, parabens, drying alcohols and colourants like carmine, and compares them with the profile you choose. The reason is always the ingredient on the list.

Sources

1. EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 (Article 19: labelling)
2. EU Regulation 2023/1545: expanded list of fragrance allergens
3. European Commission: CosIng ingredient database
4. US FDA: Cosmetics Labeling Guide